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Question: How do you propagate
impatiens?
Answer: Impatiens are one of the
most easily propagated annuals. Simply cut a piece of stem just under a
leaf junction with a knife or sharp scissors. The cutting does not have to be
very large, but should be large enough to handle, with at least 3 or more sets
of leaves - 2-3 inches or so. Pull the lowest leaves off, and stick the
stem in moist potting soil or sterile mix, making sure to cover the junction on
the stem where you pulled the leaves off (this is called a node). This is
where new roots will form.
Gently tamp down to make sure there is good contact between soil and stem.
Set the cutting in a warm, shaded area and check daily. If you set the
cutting in too much sun, it will wilt. If it is too cold, it will not take
root. There may be some wilt in the first day or two even in perfect
conditions, but this is normal. Check daily and keep the soil moist, and
within a week or so, you will note that the cutting has perked up and is sending
out new growth. Give it another week or so to get established, at which
point it is ready to be moved to a bigger pot or into the garden if the garden
is fairly weed-free and is checked daily to be sure it doesn't dry out. Within a
week or two thereafter, you will have a vigorous Impatien plant that can be
treated as you would a mature store-bought plant. Note that many annuals and
perennials can be propagated in this manner, so once familiar with this process,
do experiment with other garden favorites using this same technique (be aware,
however, that some plants take a bit longer to take root and send out new
growth).
Question:
I have a beautiful double Impatiens. I keep it watered and have
fertilized once in the month I have had it. It seems to have started to
appear sickly. Leaves have a brown edge on them. Continues to bud but they seem
to fall off before opening fully. Not sure if i am over watering or what.
Please advise.
Answer: One thing for sure, your plant is undergoing
stress of some sort. When seriously overwatered, impatiens become fairly
limp, with stems bending over from their own weight. If slightly overwatered,
they might display the symptoms you describe, especially the bud drop (although
all impatiens will drop buds to some degree if disturbed). If the soil
becomes too dry, impatiens will wilt noticeably, but will recover fairly quickly
with water. This also might cause some leaf edges to turn brown.
This is my top suspect. Have you forgotten to water the plant at some
point in the recent past and then resumed regular watering? I suppose it
could be some kind of insect such as spider mites, but I get the feeling that
you are watching the plant closely enough that you would be aware of something
like that. My best advice is no more fertilizer for three months, and
water only when the top inch or so of the soil is fairly dry. Don't
withhold water to the point of wilt, but don't water the plant to death either.
If I were you, I would also take a cutting off that plant right now just in case
(see instructions above), and nurse it along in a small pot until it takes root.
The cutting should be kept very moist and in shade outside or in a sunny window
inside until it shows new growth - use a drip tray and keep it filled with
water. Double impatiens take longer than singles, so be patient.
Question: I planted impatiens this
year, as I do every year. For some reason the leaves began to turn yellow and
brown spots appeared on them. I put a layer of black mulch in my landscape this
year for the first time, do you think that has anything to do with it?
Answer: You don't say where you
are but I will take a stab at it. If you have had impatiens there every
year and this is the first year you have had problems, off the top of my head I
would say that the mulch is certainly a primary suspect - although it should
also be mentioned that you have been flirting with danger by planting the same
thing in the same place every year. Black mulch retains heat and as such
is not used much south of the Mason-Dixon line because it tends to fry plants,
but it's fine if you are in a colder climate, which I suspect you are. If
you are one of millions who has had too much rain this season, it is likely that
the roots are staying too wet under the mulch. Given the symptoms you
describe and the fact that you are using mulch, I'm afraid the dreaded "F" word
may come into play here -
Fungus. Fungal diseases will cause yellow and
brown spots on the leaves, along with stunted growth. Sound familiar?
I hate it, but not having any more details, that's my best guess. If this
does indeed turn out to be the case, your only real option is to destroy the
plants and the soil they are directly growing in. There's no cure for
fungus once it infects plants. You will need to get that mulch to dry out,
either by raking it around to improve air circulation or by taking it out
completely for now. Amending the soil with compost or whatever you use in
your area would be a good idea too if you do decide to take the mulch out.
Basically before you plant again, you will have to insure that you are not
creating another fungus factory by improving the soil condition and aeration in
that area. Once that is accomplished, rotate the plants you put in that
spot every year. I, too am beginning to see fungal disease on my own
impatiens this year because of all the wet weather and I have added a picture of
one of mine that wilted completely literally overnight. Good luck and I hope I'm wrong on this one!
Question: I live in the Kansas City
area and have been growing Impatiens for the past several years. I have a north
facing porched area where I plant them in various hanging baskets and pots.
They started out so beautifully this year...just gorgeous! But, slowly but
surely, the leaves are turning yellow and two of them especially are looking
just plain sick! What do I do? Am I watering too much? Not enough? Too much
sun? They are shaded in the middle part of the day getting their sun in the
morning and evening...please help!
Answer: Without seeing a
picture, my first guess would be too much water. In fact, I have a pot of
impatiens that doesn't have a drainage hole because I am afraid I will break the
pot if I try to drill holes in it. We have had a lot of rain here and the
pot has had standing water in it more than once. As you can see, the
impatiens are not appreciating this much, and are turning yellow at this point
too. I have attached a picture.
If
this is what yours look like, then you will need to do something about
watering/drainage. Another possibility is too much sun, although I think this is
less likely in view of the fact that your plants are on a north-facing porch.
You have had a lot of rain in Kansas City this season too, and though you don't
say what the really sick plants look like, it appears we have an epidemic of
fungal infections in impatiens this year by the number of questions I have
gotten related to impatiens problems. If your sickest plants look anything
like the one pictured in the post above this one, get rid of them immediately
before they infect everything out there. Fortunately, Impatiens are
inexpensive and available everywhere, so you can replace them easily, or replace
them with a plant that has a sturdier constitution, such as begonia or petunia,
both of which I have had stellar luck with this year.
Question: I have heard that propagating
impatiens is very easy. I took some cuttings, put them in miracle grow, perlite
and peat moss, and set them on my front deck (it is still warm and humid). They
keep blooming and I keep cutting off the blooms. I am a new gardener so am
not sure what to do next. Since impatiens are an annual, what do I do with
them when it starts getting cool outside? Do I cover them in plastic bags
(sandwich bags, ok?), or do I bring them in the house till fall, then transplant
them in my garden? They are doing better than I expected. I also did some
cuttings on petunias and ice plant. anything different to do with these?
Being new, I need details. Thank you so much for this site. I would
have never thought you could propagate annuals. This is exciting for me,
as I'm sure for a lot of your gardeners. I am in zone 6.
Answer: I have been
gardening for years, and I still get excited about manufacturing my own free
plants by propagation. It's a whole new ballgame when you don't have to
spend tons of money! Impatiens are about the easiest plant there is to
propagate from stem cuttings, as you have just discovered. I just stick my
cuttings in potting soil and I don't think I have ever lost a single one, so
don't be too fussy about the soil, although I applaud you for doing it by the
book. You don't really have to keep cutting off the blooms either, because
impatiens cuttings root within about a week and are basically adult plants doing
their thing by the time you see them flowering again. I am in zone 7, and
I have only had a handful of impatiens survive the winter no matter how well
protected and mulched, so in zone 6, you don't really stand a chance if they are
outside. They will take cooler weather but the first frost will turn them
into mush. Therefore, if you want to keep them, you will have to pot them
up and keep them inside in a window with bright light. If they get enough
light, they make beautiful houseplants, but if they don't, they become leggy and
fairly unattractive. They do very well under grow lights, so that might be
an option too. In my situation, I like a lot of color in the garden and I
don't have enough room to overwinter every color of impatiens, so when winter
hits, I sadly say goodbye. Once the soil is warm again in the spring, I
buy one flat with every color I want and propagate from that for the rest of the
season. It's cheap, easy, and very effective. The same exact thing
applies for petunias and ice plant, except that even in a good window with lots
of light, they probably won't do well in the house unless you grow them under
grow lights, because they are full-sun plants. Having said all that, you
should still have time to take some cuttings off biennials and perennials that
can be overwintered outside if you hurry. A few off the top of my head are
Sweet William, Hydrangea, Wallflower, Salvia, Lantana, Candytuft, Chrysanthemum,
Verbena, and Yarrow. Don't forget the herbs either - all the mints can be
propagated by cuttings, as can rosemary, sage, lemon balm, thyme, and basil, to
name just a few. The list of plants that can be propagated by cuttings is
endless, so never be afraid to snip a little piece off of your favorites and see
what happens! Good luck to you and I'm so glad I was able to help inspire
you!
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